HARNESS FUNCTION
The harness must unify the combination of driver, horse, and vehicle. It mechanically connects the horse and vehicle and joins in purpose the driver and the horse.
The communication system of the harness, bit, bridle, and reins joins horse and driver.
Three systems connect horse and vehicle:
The vehicle support and steering system centres on the driving saddle.
The draught system centres on collar and traces.
The braking system centres on the breeching and holdback straps.
What follows is a detailed explanation of the structure, function, fitting, safe use, and care of all components of these systems, together with a brief discussion of what is appropriate.
THE COMMUNICATION SYSTEM
The
driving communication system comprises the reins, bridle, and bit of the
harness, complemented by whip and voice aids. The driving experience differs
from modern transportation in that the driver only indirectly controls the
acceleration and direction of the vehicle, the horse being entrusted as the
agent of the driver's will. It is amazing how well our compliant partners do
this task. Our duty is to
provide clear indications through an effective, comfortable communication
system.
The focal point of the communication system is the bit (7), the varieties and use of which could fill a whole book. Suffice it to say that the bit must fit the mouth, being wide enough not to pinch the lips, but not so wide as to give indistinct directions.
It should be accepted by the horse by his moving up to it, to give gentle but distinct contact. It should replicate at the mouth the touch of the hand.
The bit is connected to the hand by reins (11). For carriage driving, reins should be brown or russet throughout. The reins must be securely fastened to the bit by buckled billets. Billets are subject to wear. Always examine them when harnessing up. Average single-horse reins are fourteen feet long -- cow hides average seven feet -- so joints in reins are inevitable. Joints should be very smooth to avoid catching in the terrets (23,34). Joints should not be much thicker than the reins themselves, nor should they be much stiffer, or wear by flexing will occur where the thick and thin portions meet. Stitching must never cross reins except at a very gradual angle. Always examine joints of reins.
The hand parts of reins must be of such width as to comfortably fit across the inside of the space between joints of the partly flexed fingers. This is a personal measurement. Improper width will cause discomfort, which will degrade the hand in a manner noticeable by the horse. Handparts should flex around the fingers, but be firm enough to be pushed through the fingers when shortening reins. Various grip-enhancing features may be built into hand parts. Wrapping, plaiting, and lacing are common. Both plaiting and lacing hold grit, are difficult to clean, and are not usually considered appropriate for lady whips, who generally most need grip enhancement. Wrapped handparts are not popular in this country, but give excellent grip, are appropriate, and do not retain dirt. Anyone suffering from impaired ability to grip should consider wrapped handparts. A small buckle may connect the ends of the handparts of reins. For safety, this buckle must have a weak tongue, and the hand parts will preferably be narrowed at this buckle to cause weakness, lest one be dragged by the reins.
THE VEHICLE SUPPORT AND STEERING SYSTEM
The main component of the vehicle support and steering system is the saddle or pad. The saddle is essentially a wide, padded, stiffened strap over the horse's back.
The saddle comprises of a tree, to which flaps are attached and supported on padded panels. The saddle, if black, may have patent-leather skirts, welts, and pug seat. Flaps may be patent, but patent flaps lack durability. For russet saddles, pigskin is proper wherever patent leather would be used on a black saddle. The saddle is fitted with terrets , which guide the reins, which anchors the bearing rein, and to its rear a crupper-strap staple, and it may be fitted with a purely decorative pug seat.
The horse steers the vehicle by pushing left or right into the saddle. For two-wheeled vehicles the horse, through the saddle, supports the front of the vehicle, in which case the saddle must be wide enough to distribute the weight transmitted through the shafts. The saddle must not, however be so wide as to prevent proper ventilation of the horse's back. About four inches is average for a thousand-pound horse with a two-wheeled vehicle.
For four-wheeled vehicles, the horse bears only the weight of the shafts, and the pad can be narrower. The saddle is stiffened by a tree. Trees may be rigid, spring, or soft. Rigid trees must fit, spring trees ought to fit, but are usually too rigid to conform, and soft trees allow the saddle to become misshapen if incorrectly stored. A rigid tree must be formed to fit the angle of the horse's back.
The underside of the saddle is padded. Sufficient padding must be installed to lift the gullet of the saddle above the withers so that with the full vehicle weight applied a finger will fit above the bony processes of the vertebrae. Sometimes the padding is contoured to fit the horse. The padding may be quilted, which causes it to grip the hair of the horse and allows a looser girth. The finer the quilting, the greater the grip.
The saddle is retained by a girth . The girth may be padded, but is better made plain, with a slippery-when-wet inner surface. If both saddle and girth grip strongly, chafing may occur in distance driving. The width of these parts is a compromise between good distribution of forces and good cooling. On some horses the girth tends to ride forward, causing girth sores.
The single horse saddle is provided with shaft tugs to transmit the force of shafts to the saddle. There are three types of shaft tugs: English(or open), French, and Tilbury. English tugs are common with straight-shafted, two-wheeled vehicles, and gigs. With English tugs, if shaft stops are fitted, examine the slots of the heads of the screws attaching the shaft stops for burrs, as such eat English tugs. French tugs are used with two-wheeled vehicles with upward curving shafts, and when the vehicle is incapable of being balanced. French tugs are often considered to be fancy, but the are very practical wherever the shafts must be held down, as would usually be done with English tugs and a wrap-girth. Since they are both fancy and practical, French tugs are very versatile. Tilbury tugs are for four-wheeled vehicles.
Vehicles should be balanced never to apply more than momentary upward shaft force, but to avoid more than ten or so kilos of downward pressure on each shaft. Balance is obtained by moving weight fore and aft of the axle, usually by sliding the seat. Changes in the number of passengers may require changes in balance. With English tugs, ideal balance is indicated when the shafts begin to float in the tugs when climbing a steep hill. The tugs may be supported by a running backband which slides from side to side in a channel inside the saddle. This arrangement allows the horse and saddle to rotate within the shafts as the horse moves, which is easier on both horse and passengers.
Shafts must be securely held down by some type of shaft girth, which must be carefully examined, as its failure is very dangerous. With a running backband and English tugs, the backband often extends down past the shaft tugs to a shaft girth that runs in loops on the saddle girth. These loops must always retain the path of the shaft girth upon and below the saddle girth even when descending steep hills, or the horse's skin may be pinched between the girths.
French tugs are fitted with billets that hold down the shafts and attach to a shaft girth. Tilbury tugs function similarly to French tugs, but are appropriate for use with four-wheeled vehicles only.
Parts of a Harness
This article was submitted by Angie from Walkabout Creek.